A Summer of Grandkids and Hiking!
Happy Trails!
The only reason we’re in Scotland is to hike The West Highland Way, a 96-mile hike through the Highlands. Edinburgh and Glasgow were just cities on the way to now. This is a lovely break just for ourselves.
Monday, July 6: Is it really the 6th already???
The last few days have been a whirlwind. Slow travel from Fort William to Stromness on Orkney Island (called Orkney Mainland just to confuse the issue.) A day to recover in Fort William. A day in Inverness to transition to Orkney. First day in Orkney we checked off what we came for: to see Skara Brae, a 5100 year old settlement discovered in 1850 when there was a severe storm on the coast, sandy dunes were washed away and ta-da! A rich and different settlement, older than the Pyramids, older than Stonehenge, suddenly exposed.
Hey All, I’m frustrated with my blogging ability, coming up with messages that I don’t understand that block my from downloading photos, so you’re off the hook! Text me about how much you miss me and I’ll send you photos and let you know how I’m doing. Love you all! See you in August when we’re back in Boulder. Signing off and going to enjoy our trip and let the stress go…
Wednesday, July 1: Day Nine: Kinlochleven to Fort William, 15 miles, 43,000 steps
We made it to the end of the trail! We’re glad we’re here. We’re glad we did this trip. It was beautiful all along the way. The people we’ve met, the magnificent scenery, everything.
Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain is out there somewhere!
Tuesday, June 30: Day Eight: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven, 9 miles, 28,000 steps
So many of the places remind us of other places. It makes us remember not only that Mother Earth’s landmass was once a single mass and has shared geologic upheavals over the millennium, but though separated now by water, political lines and cultures, we are still one. Let’s try to act together and for the good of us all. Vertical striations streaming with cascading water on the mountain sides: the same striations on the fjords of Norway. Shale-like gorges carved and shaped by that same water: the gorges in Upstate New York Fingerlakes region.
Monday, June 29: Day Seven: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse, 12 miles, 32,000 steps
It’s impossible to show you through pictures of the beautiful landscapes that we are traveling through: expansive moors leading off into rain, clouds and the promise of mountains; enchanted pine forests ground-covered with mosses, ferns, fallen rotting logs; cobbled 18th century military roads; rock hopping along elevated, non-railed narrow trails with brambles, trees and loch water waiting to catch your misstep; stair stepping up endless seeming steps to 360 degree wonderous view of before and to come. Tomorrow is our last day on the West Highland Way.
Sunday, June 28: Day Six: Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy, 8 miles, 18,000 steps
We were thrilled to have an easy day. Yesterday was a lot of walking in the rain and being in wet socks created lots of blisters. Today, we were all bandaged up (or “plastered” up in Scottish speak!) and ready for a saunter on a military road. Military roads were built by the British Army starting in about 1750 to help move soldiers around the remote Scottish Highlands. They are still in use today by farmers getting to their sheep, hiking trails and some repaved for housing developments!
Saturday, June 27: Day Five: Ardlui to Tyndrum, 15 miles on the trail, 35,000 steps
Chuck finally got the Scottish weather that he’s been hoping for! It rained most of the day, but the walking was relatively easy if you ignore the rain and puddles. Lots of beautiful forests and mountains (munros) with wisps of clouds dancing in between the trees.
On the ferry back to the trail; Our last view of Loch Lomond as the trail continues but the lake does not; Break-Whatever you want to call it. Coffee break, Second breakfast, Swedish Fika.
The rain brought out a lot of fun creatures!; Whoo-whoo! Train bridge; Moooooo! Some coos!
There’s so much history that we’re walking through and we are so ignorant of it! All these clans fighting each other, Scots fighting English for independence, and so many legends! Maybe I’ll find Robert the Bruce’s broad-sword!
Friday, June 25: Day Four: Rowardennan to Ardlui, 13 miles on the trail, 32,000 steps
Today’s segment is billed in all the guidebooks as the most difficult leg of the Way. It follows the coastline of Loch Lomand and is absolutely beautiful. The trail is up and down, over boulders, little waterways channeled so walkers can step over them, then up and down, over boulders, little waterways…. You get the picture. The first five miles was easy dappled forest; the last eight miles was up and down, over boulders, little waterways… The weather had been forecasting 75% rain with thunderstorms, but luckily we got past the up and down, over boulders (did I mention tree roots?) before they became slippery as shit and the waterways filled and spilled over. We were thrilled to use our rain gear! It was great! Especially since it was only two miles of rain to the boat ferrying us to our hotel. You might ask, “Are you sore from all that walking?” Hell, yes! After sitting for dinner, we hobble around for a little walk to shake it off. In the morning, it seems fine. Today, my shoulders took a beating. I’m not sure what I did differently with my pack, but tomorrow I hope it works itself out.
We learned our lesson and applied our DEET in the morning! Gotta say, they do prefer biting Chuck than me! Next photo is an example of an “Honesty Box” that are sort of like little libraries that appear here and there, sponsored by people who want to earn a few dollars. They’re stocked with snacks, water, bandages, anything you might need on the trail. It’s the honor system that you’ll leave money or pay through a QR code. And finally, Chuck on one of the stone downhills. His comment? “This isn’t so bad. Just precarious!”
The entire hillside was gurgling with streams and waterfalls. Miles from anywhere, we found a special lunch spot of left shaped carved wood (and acorns!) for hikers. Chuck raising the ball to let the ferryman know to come ferry us across to our lodging.
Thursday, June 24: Day Three: Balmaha to Rowardennan, 8 miles on the trail. 23,000 steps.
We knew this would be an relatively easy day so we stayed in Rowardennan for the morning and took a “cruise” around the lake. That means we got on the ferry boat that connected a few loch towns and circled around until we got back to where we started. It was lovely. Another warm day. We’re getting used to sweating from every gland in our bodies and being completely drenched after an hour of hiking. The humidity is amazing, especially after dry Colorado.
This is a “Haggis Trap,” where the local restaurant catches fresh Haggis for dinner! Location by the water for “second breakfast” and the lovely dapples path. Lunch included applying 70% DEET for warding off the amazingly aggressive deer flies.
Wednesday, June 23: Day Two: Drymen to Balmaha. 9 miles on the trail. 23,000 steps.
We split up the suggested 14.5 mile day today into two days. And so glad we did! We could take our time and get to Balmaha a little early to relax and walk around what little town there is. And the climb up and down Conic hill, on the fault line separating the Lowlands from the Highlands was a KILLER! Lots of steps up, but many, many, many more going down. The view at the top: stunning and worth it.
Our first view of Conic Hill. We shared the trail with sheep. And apparently cows at some point too! Someone (not us!) wasn’t looking where they were going!
We made it! As Marv said in Home Alone 2, “Harry, I’ve reached the top!” Scotland is divided into the Highlands and the Lowlands by the Highland Boundary Fault, running about 140 miles almost directly east-west. Conic hill and the islands in Loch Lomond are on the fault line. Look north: Highlands! Look south: Lowlands!
On the backside of Conic Hill. Down. Down. Down. Down. If we thought going up was hard, the down side was much longer! Uneven stones almost the entire way and we had to pick footing step by step by step.
Tuesday, June 22: Day One: Milngavie to Drymen. 13 miles on the trail. 35,000 steps
The start of the trail in Milngavie, Scotland; Apparently a hiker who didn’t make it; Our first really good view of the hills in the area; On the trail!
About 4 miles into the day Chuck says, “It’s unlikely that we’ll ever come back here. So I think we should learn and remember as much as we can while we’re here.” Okay, I think. Where is this leading? Duh. And he continues, “So I really think we should stop at the distillery and try some more whiskey.” LOL. Naturally, we did. Note how beat we already look! 11:00 am and we’re drinking whiskey!
We were surprised that there weren’t more hikers on the trail. It was hours before we caught up to anyone or they caught up to us. But then I jinxed it by commenting on it! It’s hard to know if you should pass someone or let someone pass you, or take a picture so they catch up, or visa versa. Thirteen miles plus getting to the train in the morning and dinner in Drymen, well, we’re pretty beat. As Roberta, who worked at my dad’s restaurant, used to say, “Ma feets hurt!” It was only in the mid seventies today, but really, really humid. We have forgotten what it’s like to sweat!
Monday, June 22
A couple more photos before we’re off on the trail tomorrow! Laundry today and basically relaxing.
Just because it’s so beautiful.
Who knew the most gin in Scotland is consumed in Edinburgh?
While in Scotland… we’ve been told we need to try a little “dram” of whiskey. Not being whiskey drinkers we tried the flight “Journey to Whiskey” thinking that it was for people like us who don’t drink brown alcohol. Nope. First taste is raw ethanol. (Doesn’t put hair on your chest, but it does threaten to remove all your taste buds.) Next is 602 days aged. No idea why 602 and neither did the server, but oh well. Not as awful as the first. Next the distillery’s (Holyrood Distillery in Edinburgh) most popular whiskey and the last mashed with wine yeast and aged in wine barrels. A bit of water opens up the whiskey (who knew?) but it’s basically still terrible. Maybe we’re just dumb Americans.
Might as well taste the beer too! And if there’s going to be beer, might as well have fish and chips with mushy peas.
We’re pretty much overwhelmed by the churches. How could they build these places in 1,300 and have them still standing??? Well, okay, it took the builders hundreds of years, but still. The first is St Giles in Edinburgh, the next two the Glasgow Cathedral.
And the crazy ceilings!
And some “Hero Worshipping” as he said to the museum docent at the Hunterian Museum on the University of Glasgow campus… Apparatus from Lord Kelvin (William Thomson) that he used in lectures at University of Glasgow or for his own experimentation and invention. And of course, where he lived while at the university! Late nineteenth century.
Saturday, June 19
Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Mary King’s Close, yet another Pride Parade, gin tasting, whiskey tasting… we’re whooped and heading to bed! Maybe I’ll get photos posted, but you get the idea!
Thursday, June 18
We moved on to Edinburgh today in anticipation of our hike on the West Highland Way. But before we get to that, here are a few more things from Vienna:
The Austrian artist/architect/environmentalist/political activist Hundertwasser (his full pseudonym is Friedensreich Regentag Dunkelbunt Hundertwasser, basically translated as Peace-rich Rainy Day Darkly Multi-colored Hundred Waters) is one of my favorite artists. Chuck and I had a “Hundertwasser Tour” Day.
Off to school!
A Day in the Life of the Klaffenboeck Family…
Sunday, June 14
I have forgotten how much work four children are. Lovely children, but kids need attention…
Wake up. Want breakfast. Naturally everyone wants something different. Katie has plans for us going out so she starts packing food: bread, crackers, cheese meats, cut apples, cucumbers, carrots, water, candy… Time to get packed. Everyone brushed their teeth? Nope, but only one is whining about it so that’s a success! Dressed? Nope, but only one has no underpants so that’s a success! Shoes? Nope. But at least the shoes can all be found so that’s a success! Helmets on? Not yet. Backpacks? Almost. Bikes? Two kids are running up and down the hall and climbing on the stairwall but they’re still in the building. Success! Gamama and Grandpa are staying out of the way, helmets on, bikes ready and even with underpants on!
Finally out and on our way to Haus des Meers (the aquarium). 6 mile bike ride into town. Excited kids. Lost kids. Kids not listening. Food. Gift shop. Excited kids. Lost kids. Kids not listening. Food. Gift shop…
Haus des Meers is an aquarium made out of a Flakturm: an anti-aircraft tower build in the middle of the city in WWII. There are several around town. They are such incredibly strong concrete structures that they can’t easily take them down. So there they are…
Then 3 miles to Schonbrunn, the summer palace of the Habsburg family where grandparents, Susi and Nicky are going to see a puppet show for children of Mozart’s Magic Flute. Nicky has been singing all the songs because his choir did a few for their concert earlier in the month. Imagine the puppet show in Sound of Music only with opera and Mozart and you get the idea.
Amazing what you can do with puppets and not get tangled! Food. More food. Thank goodness for all the food Katie packed! Back on bikes. 9 miles home. Pizza. Grandparents emotionally exhausted and depart for Airbnb. Parents carry on…
Saturday, June 13: Just to confuse everyone, this is the spot where I just rearranged everything so that the most recent posts appear first…
Saturday, June 13: Biked into town for Pride Parade. Holy moly. Two hours of glitter, rainbows, gold and crocheted g-strings, bare chests, netted boobs, music, dancing! And somehow we planted our blanket on a nest of lady bug larvae! We lasted an hour, then went to get ice-cream!
Wednesday, June 10
Phil and Susi are animals! Katie wanted to show us where she worked so we biked to a park nearby so the kids could play, she would go to work and then Chuck and I would ride home with the kids. FIVE miles each way. And they’re only five years old (on the 30th of June!)
Phil and Susi at Daycare Sommerfest. You’ll get to recognize their “camera” faces!
The weather is getting us ready for Scotland, Norway and Sweden… in the 60’s and rainy. But that doesn’t stop us! And we’ll get enough hot next week. It’s predicted to be in the upper 90’s. Ugh!
June 9:
We made it to Vienna! As Chuck says, you’ve got to look at the positive side of everything: not that our flights were changed at the last minute, not that Mary Sue packed a 50 pound bag of “stuff” for the kids in a suitcase with a broken wheel that was only discovered once on the street dragging it to the bus, and not that we sat for over an hour on the runway due to thunderstorms! Instead, we got rebooked on a flight with the first leg going east instead of west. Yay! We made it; we got to hug and hug and hug everyone!
June 6, 2026
We thought we were ready to go, but suddenly all the clothes we want to bring are in the laundry! Three days until we leave on June 8 and we have two great Open Space and Mountain Parks programs to attend and lots of last minute cleaning to get the house ready for Airbnb guests. We are very excited to see Katie and Mandi, Joseph and Ylva and all the grandkids!
